OSIRIS SKID PLATE INSTALL INSTRUCTIONS

Once you receive your new Osiris Skid Plate you should have these parts:

• - 1 Aluminum Skid Plate 
• - 2 Aluminum T-Bracket Posts
• - 1 .5x1.25x26 Inch Aluminum Sub Frame Bar       
• - 6 10mm Fender Washers
• - 1 10mm Star Washer
• - 1 10mm Gold Washer 
• - 6 10mm Lock Washers        
• - 4 10x25mm Bolts
• -  2 10x40mm Bolts
• - 2 Hexagon Rivet-nuts             
• - 3 8mm Nuts
• - 3 8mm Flat Washers       
• - 1 Aluminum Rivet-nut Install Tool

Tools You Will Need:

• - Flat Head Screwdriver
• - Driver with 12 Inch Extension with Wobble End
• - Metric Socket Set with Normal and Deep Sockets
• - Torque Wrench
• - Set of Large Metric Wrenches and Vise Grips
• - ¾ Inch Drill Bit with Drill
• - Car Ramps or Jack Stands with Jack 
• - Never Seize Compound
• - Regular Lubrication Grease
• - Torx T25 Screwdriver
• - Torx T30 Screwdriver (TDI only)
• - Permanent Marker or Chalk

Now that you have familiarized yourself with the parts of the skid plate and prepared the tools you will need to do the job, you’re ready to get started.

Please Read: All of the 2005.5 and newer Jetta and the 2006 and newer GTI/Rabbit have a partial plastic skid plate from the factory. The TDI diesel has a full plastic skid plate from the factory. In this installation instruction, I will be giving step by step directions on how to install your new aluminum skid plate in conjunction with your plastic skid plate from the factory. If you no longer have your plastic skid plate or you do not want to install the aluminum skid plate with the plastic skid plate still on your car, simply ignore the parts of the directions that show how to have both installed.

Step #3: This next step is for the people that own a TDI diesel that want to have the plastic skid plate in conjunction with the aluminum skid plate. It also describes how to install the sub frame bar so it is required that you read this step as well. In this step you will need to test fit the sub frame bar to the lower sub frame. The sub frame bar has cut outs that match perfectly with the contour of the sub frame. Simply place the bar so the holes on either end line up with the holes on the sub frame where you just removed the two 18mm bolts. The contour of the bar must fit the shape of the sub frame like in the lower picture. Once it is lined up, take one of your 18mm bolts and insert it through the hole at the end of the bar and thread it only 4 turns back into the lower sub frame. Slide the bar down to the end of the bolt and swing the bar so it points toward the back of the car. If your car is a TDI diesel you will need to place the plastic skid plate back on the car and only install the center back Torx T30 screw. Now swing the sub frame bar back over into its original position and slide it up the bolt so the other end is lined up with the hole where the other 18mm bolt was removed. Now you will need to take your permanent marker or chalk and make a really visible mark on the plastic skid plate where the two inner threaded 10mm holes line up on the plastic skid plate. This will mark where you will need to drill through the plastic skid plate in order for bolt access later on in the installation. Now slide the bar down and out of the way again and remove the plastic skid plate.

Picture: Lining up the sub frame bar.

Picture: Marking the two locations onto the plastic skid plate with a permanent marker.

Step #4: At this point you should already have the sub frame bar half installed from step #3. Simply swing the sub frame bar back over and insert the other 18mm bolt through the end hole in the bar and thread it only 4 turns into the sub frame. Now you will need to tighten both 18mm bolts at the same time by hand until the head of the bolt seats into the counter sunk ends of the sub frame bar. You cannot thread one side in and then the other or the height difference will cause it to bind. Now that the two 18mm bolts are threaded in by hand you will need to torque each bolt to 50 lb-ft.

*Note: The head of the 18mm sub frame bolts must be all the way into the counter sunk portion of the sub frame bar. If either of them is not all the way in, then loosen off both bolts a little and try to reposition the bar and thread the bolts in evenly at the same time.

Step #5: Now you will be installing the two rivet nuts on the upper front frame rails. This kit only requires one rivet nut to be installed on each side. Start by assembling your rivet nut installation tool by taking the 10mm gold washer and sliding it onto one of your 10mm bolts. Then insert the bolt through the hole of the 5” long flat aluminum bar. Now slide the 10mm star washer onto the bolt until it is against the flat bar. Next you will need to put some automotive grease onto the threads of the bolt for lubrication and then thread the gold rivet nut onto the bolt so it looks just like in the following picture.

Picture: Rivet nut install tool fully assembled and ready to go.

Starting with the driver’s side upper front frame rail, locate the hexagon shaped hole in the frame as seen in the following picture. This is where the first rivet nut will be installed.

Picture: Drivers side hexagon hole.

Now you will want to have your driver with 12” wobble head extension and 17mm socket on the end, ready to go. Take your assembled rivet nut tool and insert the rivet nut into the hexagon hole in the frame. Now take your driver and tighten the bolt to 35 lb-ft. Make sure that the head of the rivet nut stays tight and flush against the frame. Also the rivet nut tool will need to turn and butt up against the stationary bolt that protrudes down from the frame just like in the following picture. When you have finished tightening to 35 lb-ft, start to remove the bolt while holding the install tool making sure it does not turn. Completely remove the bolt and install tool so the rivet nut is the only piece of hardware left seated in the frame.

Picture: How to install the rivet nut.

*Note: If you don’t have a 12” wobble head extension, you can remove both plastic side skirts instead. Removing them will give you full unrestricted access to the frame rails and can make the installation easier. There should be eight Torx T25 screws holding each one on. This will make the install a little longer but may be the best option for some people. 

Set #6: Now you will need to install the second rivet nut on the passenger side frame rail. Assemble the rivet nut tool again with the next rivet nut just like in strep #5. Locate the hexagon hole in the passenger side upper front frame rail as seen in the following picture. Install the rivet nut exactly like you did in step #5.

Picture: Showing the passenger side hexagon hole.

Step #7: Next you will be installing the driver’s side T-bracket post on the frame rail where you installed the first rivet nut. Take one of your 10x25mm bolts and slide a 10mm lock washer onto it and then slide a 10mm flat washer onto it as well. Take some of your Never Seize compound and put a generous coating onto the threads of the bolt and put the bolt in a handy place to grab it. On the drivers side frame rail there will be two threaded studs hanging down that have a plastic dust cap on them. Remove the dust caps and place them off to the side. Now take the T-bracket post that has three holes in the top plate and slide the post into position so the front and back holes slide over the 8mm studs that hang down. Then take your assembled 10x25mm bolt and thread it hand tight through the center hole into the rivet nut. Now put some Never Seize compound onto the two 8mm threaded studs that hang down from the frame rail. Next you will need to slide an 8mm flat washer onto each stud and then thread an 8mm nut onto the two studs as well. Thread the nuts by hand up to the top of each stud and then tighten them to 15 lb-ft using a deep socket. Now tighten the 10mm bolt to 35 lb-ft.

Picture: Drivers side post fully installed.

*Note: Before you torque the bolts please make sure the post is properly seated in place so the studs and the rivet nut head are in the counter sunk holes of the T-bracket post. If the post is not seated properly then the post could be out of alignment when tightening the bolts. Also if your car is 2.0 Turbo Gas engine, it may be easier for you to install the passenger side T-bracket if you take the rubber lower intercooler hose off. To do this you need to slide the two clips off that hold the hose on and then the hose pulls right off and can be placed off to the side. Stuff some clean paper towel into the open ends of the pipes that are still on the car to make sure nothing can contaminate the inside of the pipe. Once the post is installed, remove the paper towel and reinstall the intercooler pipe.

Step #8: Now you will be installing the passenger side post. Get another 10x25mm bolt ready with the lock washer, flat washer and Never Seize compound on the threads just like in step #7. Take the other T-bracket post and put it in position so the back hole is over the rivet nut and the front hole is slid over the 8mm stud. Now take your assembled 10x25mm bolt and thread it by hand into the rivet nut until it is snug. Now take some Never Seize compound and place a small amount onto the front stud that hangs down at the front of the post. Take the last 8mm washer and slide it onto the stud and then start to thread the last 8mm nut onto the stud as well. You will need the driver with extension and a socket to thread this nut onto the stud. Tighten the 8mm nut to 15 ft-lb. Now tighten the 10x25mm bolt to 35 lb-ft.

Picture: Showing the driver with extension tightening the 8mm bolt.

Step #9: This step is only if you own a TDI diesel and you want to have you stock plastic skid plate to be installed in conjunction with the aluminum skid plate. Back in step #3 you made two marks onto the plastic skid plate using a permanent marker. Take your drill with a ¾” drill bit and drill a hole into the plastic skid plate in the two locations that you had marked. The two holes are drilled so the aluminum skid plate can be bolted to the sub frame bar. The plastic skid plate is really thin and will be easy to drill.

Now you need to take your permanent marker and make two lines marking the width of the post on each side skirt right by the bottom of each T-bracket post just like in the following picture. This is so you can see exactly where the plastic skid plate will need to be trimmed so the aluminum skid plate can be bolted to the front mounting posts.

Picture: Showing how to make the marks onto the side skirts.

Take the skid plate and slide it into its front clips so it is partially installed. Now take your permanent marker and follow the same angle of the two lines that are on the side skirts and continue them for 2 inches onto the plastic skid plate just like in the following picture. Connect the two lines on each side with your permanent marker and remove the skid plate. Now use a utility knife or Dremmel Rotary tool and cut out the 1.25” by 2” rectangular section you marked on the plastic skid plate with the permanent marker. These two holes are necessary for you to be able to bolt the skid plate to the front two mounting posts if you are keeping the TDI diesel plastic skid plate on the car with the aluminum skid plate. If you haven’t already, put the plastic side skirts back on and completely reinstall the plastic skid plate. Make sure you have access to the bottom of each post and the threaded 10mm holes on the sub frame bar.

Picture: Showing how to make the marks on the plastic skid plate.

 

Step #10: Now take the last two 10x25mm and 10x40mm bolts and put the lock washer, flat washer and Never Seize compound on the threads and place them within reach to install the skid plate. Next take the skid plate and with the stamp saying EVOLUTIONIMPORT.COM to the front of the car, lift the skid plate up into place and line up the drivers hole at the front with the bottom of the post. Take one of the 10x25mm bolts and thread it 3 turns into the post.  Next line up the rear passenger hole with the 10mm hole on the sub frame bar and thread one of the 10x40mm bolts three turns into the bar. Repeat the same procedure with the passenger post and then the driver’s side of the sub frame bar making sure the two 10x40mm bolts are installed at the rear of the plate and the two 10x25mm bolts are installed at the front of the plate into the front posts. Once all the bolts are in place simply tighten by hand until they are snug. 20 lb-ft will be plenty tight enough.

Congratulations, you are done.

If you have any questions or concerns while installing this skid plate, please only contact the distributor you bought it from or ourselves as we are by far the most qualified to answer your questions.